Most Australians pay more than they need to for a car because they don't negotiate. or they negotiate badly. Here's exactly how to get the best price, with scripts you can use word-for-word.
Rule 1: Know the Real Price Before You Walk In
The dealer's biggest advantage is that they know the margin and you don't. Level the playing field:
- Check the RRP on CarSorted. this is the manufacturer's recommended price, not the dealer's price. Dealers can sell above or below RRP.
- Get 3 quotes via email. email 3 dealers asking for their best driveaway price on the exact spec you want. This creates competition without face-to-face pressure.
- Check the driveaway price. RRP + stamp duty + registration + CTP + dealer delivery. Ask for driveaway, not RRP. That's the only number that matters.
How Much Can You Actually Negotiate?
| Car Type | Typical Discount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| High-demand (RAV4, HiLux) | 0-2% | Dealers won't discount. there's a wait list |
| Average demand (CX-5, Tucson) | 3-7% | Negotiate on driveaway, not RRP |
| Slow sellers / runout | 8-15% | End of model year, excess stock |
| Luxury brands | 5-12% | Higher margins, more room to move |
| Demo / display cars | 10-20% | Low km, full warranty, best value |
The Best Time to Buy
- End of financial year (June). dealers push to hit targets. Best time for fleet/ABN buyers.
- End of calendar year (Dec). clearance of current-year stock before new plates arrive.
- End of quarter (Mar, Jun, Sep, Dec). dealers have quarterly targets. Last week of the quarter = most flexible.
- Model runout. when a new model is announced, old stock gets steep discounts. The car is the same. just a year older on paper.
- Avoid: January (new stock, no pressure to discount) and when a car first launches (high demand, zero discount).
Negotiation Scripts
Opening (via email)
"Hi, I'm looking to purchase a [Car Model] [Spec] in [Colour]. Could you please provide your best driveaway price for [State]? I'm getting quotes from three dealers and will make a decision this week. Thanks."
Why this works: it signals you're a serious buyer (specific spec + colour), creates competition (three dealers), and sets a deadline (this week).
Counter-offer
"Thanks for the quote. I've received a driveaway price of $[lowest quote] from another dealer. Can you match or beat that? If you can, I'm ready to put down a deposit today."
Why this works: you're using the competing quote as leverage, and "deposit today" signals you're not tyre-kicking.
Final push
"If you can include [floor mats / tinted windows / first service free], I'll sign today. Otherwise I'll go with [other dealer]."
Why this works: accessories and servicing cost the dealer almost nothing but have high perceived value to you. They'd rather throw in $500 of extras than lose a sale.
What NOT to Do
- Don't mention your trade-in until AFTER negotiating the new car price. dealers inflate the new car price to make the trade-in look generous
- Don't discuss monthly payments. dealers use this to obscure the total price. Always negotiate on driveaway price first, finance second
- Don't accept dealer finance without comparing. get a pre-approval from your bank first. Dealer finance rates are often 2-3% higher
- Don't buy paint protection or fabric protection. these are $50 products sold for $800-2,000. The biggest profit centre in any dealership
- Don't feel pressured by "today only" offers. the deal will be there tomorrow. Walk away if pressured
Dealer Add-Ons: What They Cost vs What They Charge
| Add-On | Dealer Price | Actual Value | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Paint protection | $800-2,000 | $50-100 | Skip |
| Fabric protection | $500-1,000 | $30 | Skip |
| Window tinting | $400-800 | $250-400 | Negotiate free |
| Extended warranty | $1,500-3,000 | Varies | Only for non-Toyota/Mazda |
| Floor mats (rubber) | $200-400 | $100-150 | Negotiate free |
| First service free | $0 (to dealer) | $300-500 to you | Always ask |
Used Car Negotiation
Used cars have more room to negotiate because pricing is subjective. The script is different:
- Research comparable listings. show the seller 3 similar cars listed for less. "I've seen the same model with fewer km listed for $X"
- Point out flaws. every scratch, stone chip, and worn tyre is a negotiation point. Get a pre-purchase inspection ($250-350) and use the report
- Don't be the first to name a price. ask "What's the best you can do?" first
- Cash is king for private sales. offering to settle immediately in cash (bank transfer) is worth $500-1,000 off
How Much You Could Save
On a typical $45,000 car with average demand:
- No negotiation: $49,500 driveaway
- Basic email negotiation: $47,200 driveaway (~5% off)
- Full strategy (timing + competition + counter): $45,800 driveaway (~8% off)
- Saving: $3,700 for a few hours of emails
Compare the RRP of any car on CarSorted before you walk into a dealer.
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Disclaimer: All information in this article was believed to be correct at the time of publishing (3 April 2026). Prices are manufacturer recommended retail prices (RRP) and may vary by state, dealer, and options. Specifications, government incentives, and rebates can change without notice. Always verify details with the manufacturer or relevant authority before making a purchase decision. Running cost estimates are based on average Australian driving conditions at 15,000 km/year. All opinions are editorial and independent. CarSorted does not accept payment for recommendations or rankings.
Published by CarSorted Editorial Team · 3 April 2026
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